Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts

Monday, 11 May 2015

Venice Inscribed (vi): Mr Ruskin and Mr Street

On May Day each year I open a small book, bound in red calf and with the signature ‘John Ruskin’ embossed in gold on its cover. It belonged to my grandmother and was given to her on May 1st, 1912, while she was studying at Whitelands College in south London. The date is important. In 1912, my grandmother, about to leave Whitelands to start her career, had been one of the attendants at the College’s annual ‘Crowning of the Queen of the May’ ceremony: my book carries the inscription “This book is given to Vera Dove. Signed Alice, Queen of the May, 1912” A book plate on the inside cover explains that this ‘quaint old ceremony’ had been revived at the College in 1881 ‘at the request of John Ruskin “to give real and elevating pleasure to the young”.’ Ruskin himself, during his lifetime, had presented a cross each year to the Queen of the May, together with ‘many purple calf-bound copies of his books, to be distributed to her subjects’. Both ceremony and book giving continued after Ruskin’s death.

The book is Ruskin’s A Joy Forever. When I inherited it, a red silk bookmark led me a page where I read this striking declaration:

It seems to me that one of the worst diseases to which the human creature is liable is its disease of thinking. If it would only just look at a thing instead of thinking what it must be like, or do a thing instead of thinking it cannot be done, we should all get on far better.  

The disease of thinking - this seems at first an odd complaint from one of the great thinkers of the Victorian age, ‘the sage of Brantwood’. But Ruskin was a man who hated muddle, and muddled thinking aroused his wrath. When I recall Matthew Arnold’s definition of the aim of criticism – ‘to see the object as in itself it really is’ – I think of Ruskin. In his own paintings and drawings, whether of mountains, rocks or architecture, Ruskin was always concerned to see and record as accurately as possible: he was, after all, both scientist and artist: the principles of observation by which he classified geological specimens were no different from the way he classified the different types of arches in Venice. Painstakingly, first by clambering up ladders to inspect, record and draw arches at eye level, then by identifying their particular similarities and differences, strengths and weaknesses, Ruskin was able to establish what no one had attempted before: the evolution and characteristics of six distinctive orders (types) of the Venetian arch, which unlocked the sequence of Venetian architectural development.

It was hard work, and Ruskin was scathing about the ‘mischievous tendency of the hurry of the present day’. He had spent, he complained, ‘two long winters’ in the drawing of details on the spot, and yet

I see constantly that architects who pass three or four days in a gondola going up and down the Grand Canal, think that their first impressions are just as likely to be true as my patiently wrought conclusions.

The particular object of his contempt here is George Edmund Street.  Street, architect of the Law Courts in the Strand, and one of the most prominent architects of the mid-nineteenth century, strikes me as an unlikely enemy: he would become an early and vocal member of William Morris’s Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB) of which Ruskin was the presiding spirit; he would also proclaim himself a committed opponent of ‘those destructive works of church restoration which I suspect I deplore more than my critics, and of which an instance carried out under my direction will be looked for in vain’.

Neither Street nor Ruskin suffered from self-doubt. Though there was something of a rapprochement later on, (both men meeting in Venice in 1878, lamenting together the damaging effects of growing prosperity on La Serenissima), twenty years earlier Ruskin had been unsparing:


Mr Street glances hastily at the façade of the Ducal Palace – so hastily in fact that he does not even see what the pattern is, and misses the alternation of red and black in the centre of its squares – and yet he instantly ventures on an opinion on the chronology of its capitals, which is one of the most complicated and difficult subjects in the whole range of Gothic archaeology. It may, nevertheless, be ascertained with very fair probability of correctness by any person who will give a month’s hard work to it, but it can be ascertained no otherwise.

I can’t help thinking Ruskin was less than fair to Street here, and to those other architects going up and down the Grand Canal in their gondolas. He himself advocated using a gondola to get close to the architectural details on the façades of the waterfront palaces. Here he is, in The Stones of Venice, praising ‘the precision of chiselling and delicacy of proportion in the ornament and general lines’ of the palaces between Casa Foscari and the Rialto. He urges the traveller ‘to stay his gondola beside each of them long enough to examine their every line’; but Ruskin immediately continues with this warning :

… observe most carefully the peculiar feebleness and want of soul in the conception of their ornament, which mark them as belonging to a period of decline, as well as the absurd mode of introduction of their pieces of coloured marble.

I admire Ruskin greatly, but there are times – this is one – when he surely protests too much.  I wish he’d get back in his gondola and think more carefully about what he is seeing.  He occasionally admitted he was prone to contradict himself, as I think he does here. Is it really possible simultaneously to admire ‘the precision of chiselling and delicacy of proportion in the ornament ‘ of Venetian Renaissance palaces yet to condemn ‘the peculiar feebleness and want of soul in the conception of their ornament’?  I doubt it.

Adrian Barlow

 [References: the Ruskin quotations from my grandmother’s book are in A Joy for Ever, 1880 edn., London: Geo. Allen and Unwin, p.188. Ruskin’s outburst about the ‘peculiar feebleness’ of the decoration (on the Palazzo Contarini delle Figuri) comes from The Stones of Venice, vol. III, §1. Quotations from, and references to, G.E. Street in Venice are taken from George Edmund Street, a Memoir, by Arthur Edmund Street (1886).

[Illustrations: (i) Palazzo Ducale – the courtyard, with the domes of San Marco behind; (ii) the decorative pattern on the façade of the Palazzo Ducale, which Ruskin claimed George Edmund Street had not studied with sufficient care.

Text and photographs © the author.

You can access my previous posts about Venice here:


Tuesday, 24 March 2015

Venice inscribed (v): Jan Morris

‘When you have wandered around this city for a time, and examined a few of its crooked displays, and inspected some of its paradoxes and perplexities, you will realize that much the most curious thing in Venice is Venice itself.’ No one living today has been writing about La Serenissima longer than Jan Morris: these words I have quoted come from her 1960 book, Venice, and now she has published her latest, Ciao, Carpaccio!, only a few months before her ninetieth birthday.

This new book is sub-titled ‘An Infatuation’, an infatuation with the Renaissance painter, Vittore Carpaccio (1460-1520), famous for his dazzling deployment of the rich rusty colour sometimes known as Venetian red. And in celebrating Carpaccio, Morris celebrates, too, her long love of Venice.

A word about the book itself. It’s an unusual oblong format, like an old-fashioned autograph album. Some of Carpaccio’s canvasses are exceptionally wide, and this book’s dimensions suit well the dimensions of those paintings. Its dust jacket shows a small portion, greatly enlarged, of Carpaccio’s Miracle of the True Cross at Rialto (c.1500): four gondolas are being steered across the crowded waters of the Grand Canal by gondoliers more gaudily attired than their passengers, who sit patiently under flimsy-looking awnings. A fluffy white poodle trails her tail. At the waterside, a group of onlookers watches the scene, some though gazing not at the melée on the canal but straight out at us, looking at them. Most are sporting what Jan Morris calls ‘the black Venetian cap of fashion’; several wear gowns or cloaks of Venetian red.

Ciao, Carpaccio! is a masterclass in ekphrasis, the depicting in words of something seen – a picture, most commonly, but a sculpture or object also – upon which the writer reflects and comments. Keats’ Ode on a Grecian Urn and Auden’s Musée des Beaux Arts are two of the most-cited examples, and Morris  quotes from Auden’s when discussing the Miracle of the True Cross at Rialto. So much is happening in the picture that the miracle itself – a madman healed by a fragment of the True Cross – appears ‘almost in brackets as it were’, according to Morris. The real focus of the painting seems to be the scene in front of the Rialto Bridge and the procession of gondolas cluttering the canal.


To art historians the interest of the picture lies in its observation of the everyday activity, architecture and costumes of the city. In his obsessive detailing of buildings, backgrounds, people and animals, Carpaccio seems to anticipate Canaletto, but he is like Canaletto on speed: his is a surreal dreamland Venice. Those gondolas, for instance, are not in the least like gondolas as we know them today, nor even like gondolas as they appear in other paintings of Carpaccio’s time. They are not so much foreshortened as miniaturized, leaving the gondoliers almost no stern to stand on. The elongated fórcole are too fanciful ever to have been forerunners of the modern oxbow oarlocks; indeed, the gondolier on the left appears to have no fórcola at all. But however cavalier he might have been about gondolas, Carpaccio was the Alexander McQueen of Venetian costume. Look at the skintight breeches worn by the black boatman: they are extraordinary. Who else would have recreated in their silver, grey and white pattern the three-dimensional trompe-l’oeil designs found in Venetian church floors from this period?

The one painting by Carpaccio nearly all tourists see is the 12 feet long portrait of the Lion of St Mark: it hangs in the Doge’s Palace. And it’s the one painting entirely devoid of people. In the foreground the winged lion steps ashore, hind legs still in the water, one forepaw on dry land and the other holding an open book with its text, PAX TIBI MARCE EVANGELISTA MEA. But mainland Italy this isn’t: the stony terrain is hostile; sinister weeds have been parched in the sun. In the background, however, the whole Venetian waterfront stretches serenely from Piazza to Arsenale, the great Venetian shipyard, whence full-sailed argosies are setting confidently out to sea. But the lion is what we notice. His face fascinates Morris:

It is an odd face, set against its saintly halo and looking sidelong out at me. Its eyes seem at once sardonic and a little melancholy. Its forehead is wrinkled. Its mouth could be snarling, but could be smiling. Its teeth look as though they might be false. All in all it is a curiously ambiguous countenance, and its expression strikes me as knowing and slightly impish … 

‘A curiously ambiguous countenance’ is exactly right. But it’s not lions, it’s the people and the ordinary incidents of life that matter most to this artist. So I’m happy, too, to share Morris’s sense that in such incidents Carpaccio reveals what she calls ‘the true nature of his genius’. She concludes: ‘I believe he is above all a supreme artist of that simple, universal and omnipotent virtue, the quality of Kindness.’ 

There is a valedictory feeling about Ciao, Carpaccio! I doubt whether Jan Morris intends to publish anything further on Venice, the city that made and has sustained her reputation as one of the great travel writers of our age. So I have gone back to the final paragraph of her first Venetian book: 

When at last you leave these waters, pack away your straw hat and swing out to sea, all the old dazzle of Venice will linger in your mind; and her smell of mud, incense, fish, age, filth and velvet will hang around your nostrils; and the soft lap of the back-canals will echo in your ears; and wherever you go in life you will feel somewhere over your shoulder a pink, castellated, shimmering presence, the domes and riggings and crooked pinnacles of the Serenissima.

It’s a fine leave-taking; and re-reading it now teaches me that the Venice Jan Morris was describing then matches in every detail the Venice she cherishes still in the paintings of her beloved Carpaccio.

Adrian Barlow

[illustrations: (i) the dust jacket of Ciao, Carpaccio!; (ii) tromp l’oeil flooring in the sanctuary of Santa Marie degli Miracoli, Venice.

[Quotations: from Venice (1960; 3rd ed. 1993 London: Faber and Faber) pp.214, 304; from Ciao, Carpaccio! (London-New York: Liveright Publishing Corporation, 2014)      pp.32 (the Lion of St Mark) and 171 (the quality of Kindness).


Here are links to my previous posts about Venice:



Text and illustrations © the author